Beskrivelse
David Duband, en ung vinmager, har været en af de få, der har formået at skille sig ud og triumfere i en så intens konkurrence. I begyndelsen blev han stemplet som en modernistisk vinmager med koncentrerede vine, men med tiden har hans omhyggelighed og dedikation ført ham til at udvikle en mere elegant og fløjlsagtig stil, altid med fokus på renhed samt intensitet. En indsats, der har gjort ham til en fremtrædende figur i vinmarkerne i Côte d’Or.
Robert Parker 90-92 point.
Notes of raspberries, wilted rose petals, plums and blood orange preface the 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbé, a medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy wine that’s broad and textural but youthfully reserved, displaying good depth and concentration. This will require a bit of time to show all its cards.
David Duband took over his family’s domaine in the Hautes Côtes in 1991 and began to move away from conventional farming by the turn of the millennium, attaining organic certification in 2006—a year after he and investor François Feuillet acquired the prime holdings of retiring vigneron Jacky Truchot. A key stylistic evolution took place in 2008, when Duband—who had previously entirely destemmed his grapes—began to systematically retain an appreciable percentage of whole clusters. Today, gentle extraction is the order of the day, with a délestage and crushing at the end of fermentation to liberate any remaining sugar in unbroken berries, followed by a lengthy débourbage of some three weeks. The wines then mature in barrel, some 30% of which are new, all very lightly toasted. Bursting with perfumed aromatics and structured around fine, powdery tannins, Duband’s wines carry a strong signature but remain nicely differentiated within the range. A 2009 Morey-Saint-Denis and 2008 Charmes-Chambertin, tasted to conclude our tasting, amply demonstrated that they can age very gracefully indeed.